Justice
Searching for the Culinary Soul of Los Angeles
From taquerias to haute cuisine, a new documentary tracks a famed food critic as he lives and dines in L.A.
In most cities, the phrase "food politics" might evoke images of grocery-store deserts or Bibb lettuce growing on a solar-paneled roof. But in Los Angeles, for Pulitzer-winning restaurant critic Jonathan Gold, it's in a bowl of pho, or fish kidney curry, or an order of tacos calabacitas.
"Food is political here," he has said. "It plugs into the rhythms of the city and the world and engages all the important questions of social justice, health, diversity, and inclusion."