How Capital Cities Distort Reality

If you've never been to Azerbaijan, you'd be forgiven for thinking the country is one giant Dubai-lite; an oligarch's playground where excess is the aesthetic of choice. You would think that, of course, because almost every English-language article about Azerbaijan is set in the capital city, Baku. Most include an obligatory homage to the country's glittering construction projects, Bentley dealerships, marble promenades, and bumpin' night life.

This depiction of Baku is not inaccurate. The truth, though, is that most Azeris wouldn't recognize this Disneyland as their country. About 70 percent of Azerbaijanis live outside of Baku, in "the regions." There are no skyscrapers in the regions, few night clubs, no sparkling infrastructure. For the most part, there are dusty roads and occasional kitchens where one can stop and buy some qutab (flat bread and greens) for fifteen cents a pop.