Insiders show tourists around Panama City’s areas formally known for drug trafficking and murder.

The proprietors of Fortaleza Tours have a fragile truce within the "red zone" of Panama City. In the eyes of Panamanian law, once you make it to a gang list, there’s no way off. But Fortaleza wants to change that. Not long ago, their tour guides may have been the ones to rob foreigners wandering through the area. Now, former gang members give tourists a behind-the-scenes look at their past gangland life, and all financial transactions with the tourists are voluntary. This documentary by MEL Films, Gang Tours of Panama, shows how violence is waning, the hospitality sector is moving in, and a relatively new feeling of safety has returned to the historic center of Panama City.

This post originally appeared on The Atlantic.

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