Culture

Can This Chef Solve the Problem of School Lunch?

This fall, a former chef at the world-famous restaurant Noma is piloting a new approach to school lunch in New York City.
Dan Giusti (middle) at a cooking "throwdown" at a school in New London, Connecticut.Winter Caplanson/Connecticut Food and Farm

School lunch is a problem that, so far, no one has really solved. Is it possible to cook for hundreds or thousands of kids, with only about $1.25 per head (after labor and equipment costs), following guidelines that mandate exact proportions of protein, carbs, and sugar, and still make it taste good?

Usually, no. Hence the cliché of school lunch: a droopy piece of pizza or a gray hamburger patty on a Styrofoam tray, next to a mini-carton of milk and an apple.